Summer 2020 Tour Part 2 - C2C Tyne and Wear and Hadrian's Wall Thurs 30th July-Sat 1st Aug 2020

After a day of rest at mum and dad's on Wednesday in Penrith to recuperate (only involving a walk up Aira Force) after our 3 day Dales and Lakes Loop, we were in a fit state to continue with our C2C on Thursday. All our stinky kit had been washed and tent/sleeping bags were now dry. Ironically, Wednesday was a perfect cycling day. No point in stressing that fact. Blue loop anticlockwise this time, again over three days.

Day 1 Penrith to Waskerley via Hartside 86km 1657m

After the unplanned drying out, washing kit and recovery day at my parents (was supposed to be overnight only) we were set up for the rest of the classic C2C via Hartside and Alston with wonderful contrasting cycle paths both wild and urban.What a fabulous day. Up and down dale. 

After a decent breakfast we headed out the wrong side of 10am. Wet out of Penrith of course and through Langwathby retracing the start of Part 1. 

I'm sure transport planners put these signs up to scare cyclists, no I didn't crash into the sign.

...and up we go on the lanes.

We came into Hartside from a back lane, far less traffic than the main road all the way. Now that looks a good descent!

That road is not flat up to the junction! Hard work, but once we were on the main road we were nearly there. The one advantage of bad weather is far less traffic to contend with, all quite pleasant in spite of the rain. It's advisable not to attempt Hartside at a weekend, a favourite haunt of motorbikes en masse. The few we saw were all very considerate with many waves and nods of helmets, reciprocated of course.

Of course the very familiar café did not come into view, it burnt down a couple of years back so just the summit sign, car park and a burger van.

Rain evidence!

Now Steve loves a burger and greasy spoon and I am a real snob about fast food, I just don't like it unless very good quality. However, even I'm not going to disallow a burger after that effort, and quite fancied a cup of tea myself. The fact we had a rest day was to our advantage as apparently the burger stand is only open Thursday-Sunday, and only a couple of other workers in vans, cyclists and motorcyclists around, so no wait.

Unfortunately for Steve he had to share his burger, turned out it was fantastic, butcher quality, freshly cooked, masses of toppings. Big up for the burger van at Hartside Summit! Allegedly the sausages are just as good.

Although we had been sheltering under the portakabin to eat our burger and drink our tea it was starting to dry up but quite breezy still. Not really end of July weather.

Alston was not that far. A cross roads of bike routes at the highest market town in the country, complete with it's own pavé. We stopped at Blueberry's Café eventhough it wasn't justified in distance, we are on holiday after all. It was a traditional Pennine café last year but during lockdown it had been re imagined as a high quality local produce general stores with 1 cafe table inside but outside seating. I had my daily latte and some cake for pudding. Independent businesses need all the support they can get. Cyclists can't bring all their provisions with them so tend to spend more locally on food etc even if we don't buy souvenirs!

The Northumberland sign evoked images of cavalry chasing across the moors in times gone by.

A couple on mountain bikes stopped too and kindly took a pic for us, yes we all used hand wipes etc

I never knew about the Prince Bishops.

A scenic and lumpy ride to Allenheads, again tempted by a cafe but just popped in the spotless public conveniences and off to Stanhope.

Stanhope was lovely and slap bang opposite the church was the most traditional fish and chip shop ever. 

So fish and chips and curry sauce for early "chippy tea" it was. We sat out of the wind admiring the church, very pleasant even if my photo makes us look like it was just the bins for company. Very fine fish and chips too, hot oil so fresh and beer batter crispy.

We did know there's a bloody big hill out of Stanhope up to Waskerley. My goodness we knew it after fish and chips! Conquered without walking and off onto the gravelly Waskerley Way. I made use of the obligatory bike stands bike paths always seem to have at the start, and a nice sculpture too. Plenty of old pit railway lines make a fabulous network of bike paths in County Durham.

We wombled off along the moor, all too open to camp discretely here. We dropped down into the wooded area and managed to find somewhere out of sight in the end, but in midge central. The tent went up fast and we got in it faster. The half dozen that accompanied us inside ate me to death all night, Steve didn't get one bite. But it was the only time we put up a dry tent woo!

Day 2 Waskerley to Prudhoe via Durham Sunderland and Newcastle 114km 571m

The forecast random heatwave day was today, almost all on bike paths. Our midgy camp spot...

Forced out of the tent by heat (what's that about?!) we packed up and lugged everything back onto the path and cycled up to one of the many benches to brew up. Breakfast on a bench on Waskerley Way is how every morning bikepacking/cycletouring should begin. It's how I always imagine our tours will be. Folk out early, mainly blasting up and back on their own enjoying the early morning solitude (I presume from Consett) every single one of them grinning from ear to ear with a welcoming "morning" greeting and smiling nods. 

We packed the stove away and continued down to Durham, deviating from the C2C for old times sake. Today is quite long but no hills, Steve was quite looking forward to a no hills day.

We came across a garden centre type cafe and had a second breakfast coffee and cake and almost immediately came out onto the road, past my brother’s house (he’s still in Eskdale) and onto Steve’s Granny’s house a couple of miles away where he was born, and the first member of his family I met as she used to feed us huge afternoon teas when we went over on the bus at weekends. It's coincidental that my brother has ended up in Durham, we were not brought up there.

Onto Sunderland, via Chester le Street, where we met at Sunderland Poly Rag Ball in 1985. All I can say that Sunderland has changed beyond recognition, I'm not sure I ever went by the river. Our university days were to the backdrop of the Miners' strike and mass unemployment. I did ride a bike around town but that was it.

It was so hot but a lovely route for an urban area. Roker Beach was heaving for the finish of our C2C . After a peaceful morning the hoards were a slight shock. It wasn't that bad, just felt crowded in comparison.

A couple of obligatory photos and onto South Shields passenger ferry to Tynemouth. 

Just before the ferry my bike seized and clanked alarmingly. I stopped quickly, a bolt had come out of the rack and it had dropped down. We stole one bolt from a water bottle holder and cable tied the water bottle holder on. Note to self: must go and put another bolt in, I'd forgotten about that!

We waited for the ferry and crossed over the Tyne to Tynemouth, the alternative is a passenger/bike tunnel but it was far too nice for that. We hadn't found "end of C2C" evidence in Sunderland but did find end of NCN72 Hadrian's Cycleway's "evidence" as huge buoys. Most start in Ravenglass and loop via Whitehaven to Silloth and then Carlisle and Hadrian's Wall through Newcastle to the end here in Tynemouth. Of course were were planning on most of the route the wrong way round. We didn't see a soul cycling the route our way, we were against the tide.

After another picture Steve vetoed "flogging" out to the lighthouse, as he put it, and we found an outside table at a dockside pub, where the road had been pleasantly closed for social distancing, and had a mid afternoon pint whilst people watching in the shade.

After the cool down we followed the Tyne all the way to Newcastle. and had an excellent cup of tea and chocolate caramel slice to share late afternoon at the Bike Hub. it was so good we went back for a second slice. No hardship being outdoors now. We've not gone short of refreshments today and have drunk gallons of water.

Past the Sage, Gateshead Millenium and Tyne bridges. We stayed in an apartment by the Sage with the whole family 5 years ago when #2 daughter graduated from Northumbria, #1 also came to Newcastle for university, so we used to be up twice a year for six years ferrying them.

...and all the way out to Prudhoe past George Stephenson’s house. Such a lot of contrasts but bike paths are hard work, all the stopping and starting and pedestrian avoidance doesn't make fast progress. It was all so lovely, I'd been expecting a lot of run down urban sprawl out of Newcastle but it was very rural very quickly.

We had managed to secure a camp site for tonight, more Wylam than Prudhoe so we doubled back down the other side of the bank from Prudhoe back towards Wylam again. We found the deserted campsite and they wanted £30 a night! £15 had been quoted as you'd expect for a backpacker rate for 2, turns out that was per person, there were two other tents on the scrappy rough field, the rest of the site was old static caravans. They honoured the £15 in the end. I'm not paying £30 for a shower. I'm sure Wylam was the only place to have rain that day. It ironically started as the tent was pitched. We phoned the local pub and luckily got a table and after a lovely (hot not rain) shower, I finally scrubbed off all the splatted midges and suncream, we rode down for a lovely meal in Wylam itself, actually inside. It felt reasonably normal, although incredibly quiet for a Friday night. The Ship Inn does fabulous food if you're ever passing. The highlight of Steve's holiday, other than the rest day. Lights on for the return trip.

Day 3 Prudhoe to Penrith via Hadrian's Wall Headwind 123km 1790m

I think I may have broken my husband today. Another long and hilly day via Hadrian's Wall and at Brampton then peeling south and back to Penrith was the plan.

It was wild and remote but a very different feel up top here to the classic C2C Pennines route, following Hadrian's Wall route in reverse. Today was much cooler with plenty of hills and cycling into a stiff westerly headwind and showers.

Steve was struggling, we took 4 hours to hack a lumpy 45km and finally found an excellent lunch stop at Bardon Mills, a perfect café/village shop with the owner doing absolutely everything on his own. We ordered toasties and coffee and sat outside sheltered from the wind and I contemplated the time, it was 1pm. Our toasties came and we ate them and then ordered another drink, so I knew Steve was delaying, and I bought some shortbread to take away whilst inside. 

When planning I had registered the frequent train stations from which we could abort the trip if need be. There was no way we could continue at this rate and get back before dark and I didn't want Steve to suffer anymore, it's not wise with a heart condition, so I told him he was getting the train back. I think he was quite relieved, he didn't want to spoil it for me. after buying a tic online, he headed off to get the train back to my parents in Penrith via Carlisle and I continued, with the shortbread stowed for power fuelling. I had 80km left and I tried to put my foot down. Haltwhistle was lovely too but the hills just kept on coming.  

I turned off the route at Brampton and headed south heading for Lazonby, the sun was peeping through and finally I had just a crosswind to contend with. I was really enjoying myself. After yet another hill I stopped on a wall at 100km  and admired the view to the west and ate my shortbread. I had 25km left. It was idyllic. I had a message from Steve to say he got back to Penrith, it's not easy to get on a mainline train from Carlisle with a bike at the best of times never mind just now, so that was a relief.

I chopped out a gratuitous Beacon Edge at the end. I got back after 7 with some jocular teasing "what kept you?" I was so pleased we finished the plan of basically 3 routes over two tours Steve had completed the vast majority.

It was hard with Covid limitations but we mainly managed to forget all that stuff. Just being free outside with tough physical challenges is a diversion from working too hard the past few months. Absolutely loved touring still, and felt like we recovered some fitness. It was wonderful to see my brother and family on the campsite in Eskdale (and pass their front door in Durham too!) and especially my parents after a long 6 months. Life is for living, sometimes plans have to change but go out and take what you can. Live each day. Be free. Appreciate what you have. Keep Pedalling and you get there eventually. 650km and nearly 9000m of climbing in 6 days is not that bad really!

The view from my wall.

Summer 2020 Tour Part 1 - Lakes and Dales Loop and start of C2C Sun 26th-Tues 28th July 2020

So the summer of 2020 is not quite going to plan, for anyone.

No Bristol to Pyrenees tour in June but I managed to postpone one of my 2 weeks to at least get a week away at the end of July. We have not had a week off since last November. Fortunately lockdown was lifted enough for a holiday in England. As my parents live in Penrith and we haven't seen them since January we opted for a northern tour so we could see them too.

We failed on a Lakes loop a few years ago, and learnt from our mistakes. This time we opted for a Lakes and Dales Loop starting/finishing in Penrith but over three days as we'd be camping. We sort of learnt from our mistakes last time! So we're attempting the red loop first, clockwise from Penrith where the big red marker is.

We plonked in roughly where we wanted to camp for two nights, then decided we would do C2C (Coast to Coast or Sea to Sea) as well and so reversed the red loop (now clockwise) so we could start Day 1 of C2C whilst finishing off Day 3 of the now Dales and Lakes loop. The Blue loop is the rest of C2C and return via Hadrian's Wall again over 3 days. 

With a lot of effort I finally managed to book 2 different campsites for 1 night for Part 1, the whole world and all their aunts are camping this summer, many sites are closed and of course they don't want single nights. Sunday night near Sedburgh, Monday night Eskdale Green.We drove up to Penrith on Friday night and we had a nice day with mum and dad on Saturday including a lush afternoon tea in Melmerby. It turned out that cake was going to be quite scarce on this tour. I finally finished packing. 

Day 1 Penrith to Sedburgh via Great Dun Fell 100km 2091m

We got away by 9.30am as planned, after a decent breakfast and the weather forecast was OK. Not too wet not too windy.

I had also decided to scratch an itch. I had inserted an optional side trip up Great Dun Fell when passing Knock, I figured Steve would be happy continuing to a café in Appleby and waiting for me. It also gave me an acceptable 20km warm up through Langwathby first.

Wonderfully quiet lanes with big skies and dramatic scenery greeted us straight away, we stopped at the Dun Fell turn off around 11 and I didn't let myself think about skipping it. We'd passed a couple of groups who presumably had already "done Dun." I faffed around hiding my panniers in the hedge, and Steve took the tent to Appleby. My aim was to get up, but I was very sure I'd have to walk some of it.

A group of 6 passed whilst I was procrastinating, and I set off, not in hot pursuit. The first part was fine, past the signs saying no access to unauthorised motorised transport but a designated bridleway with slick smooth tarmac. Quite a decent tailwind too. I caught up with a guy who looked like he was riding fixed, but on closer inspection either he was stuck in one gear or not using his gears. His mate was patiently waiting, then a bit further up the other 4 plus me had to pull into a passing place to wait for a livestock truck to descend. That was annoying to have to put a foot down. 

I carried on imagining them to be chasing me down. I was back in the wild, empty mountains, on my own. Free. The ribbon road stretching ahead. Then I came to a steeper bit, I kept spinning, stayed seated in the saddle, I was OK. I thought that was the prequel to "the steep bit" that I knew tipped 20% but the road turned and opened out. I had had to negotiate a closed gate on foot but suddenly "the golf ball" was in view. I'd done the steep bit, I'd kept some reserve. It was quite hairy as the now very strong westerly was buffeting me all over, I saw there was no one behind me and no one had descended either. Just me and the English equivalent of Mont Ventoux. Higher and more elevation than Bealach na Ba too. Unfortunately the cloud had closed in and swirled around, I dismounted and walked the cattle grid, the rope sign I ducked under said only hard hats beyond this point, I had a hard hat on. A few pics and I messaged Steve my selfie, he was in the cafe by the church before the bridge. I put my new gilet on, it was drizzling nicely now.

Great Dun Fell climbs for 7.4km at an average gradient of 8%.

A paved "bridleway" to a Comms Station=super smooth tarmac and no traffic.

Keep pedalling and you get there. The segment took me 58 minutes but I was riding very conservatively, half the speed of decent cyclists. my only aim was to get up and down safely preferably with no walking. 

Great Dun Fell descent was spectacular. The open bit at the top.

I grinned the whole way, literally on Cloud 9 but I was glad the new brake pads were holding. Such a difference having hydraulic disc brakes compared to the Bealach na Ba descent on rim brakes. I didn't see a soul. My new Stolen Goat gilet (not sponsored) is brilliant, stretchy and breathable and kept the chills off my damp body.

I really fancied skiing down.

Unfortunately near the bottom a couple of teens on their mtbs and I presume a mum had come up in the car, to rescue them as one had skidded and crashed and was sat forlornly on the grass. After checking they were all OK I squealed to a halt to pick my panniers up and pedalled to Appleby grinning like a mad thing and really looking forward to a coffee. I was really very pleased with myself.

I stopped in Appleby before the bridge, it turns out Steve had left the outside cafe after a bacon butty and 2 coffees and was huddled in the main church porch patiently waiting. Apparently his welfare had been enquired after. It was quite  surreal as it's been a few years since I've been to Appleby, mum and dad lived there for 15 years so we know it well, looking down at heal after all the flooding in recent years and a lot of scaffolding on the high street and empty shops, a huge shame. We ate our lunch rolls in the porch and continued over the moor to Orton. I didn't get a coffee, it seemed a bit churlish, I hadn't realised he was not inside waiting in the warm. This tour we had to be very self reliant as there was no guarantee anywhere inside was available to warm up/dry out with Covid restrictions.

Steve's happy face, he did not have any interest in Great Dun Fell at all!

St Lawrence Church, Appleby-in-Westmorland

The drizzle had subsided and it was a huge open empty moorland ride with just sheep for company in parts, into more of a headwind now of course! We were heading to Orton where we knew there was a chocolate shop/café. Orton was only 20km but the last likely civilisation before Sedburgh so I insisted on a coffee. Unfortunately it was outside service only, and only wrapped cake, but it was just warm enough to not freeze and we chatted to two others nursing hot chocolates, walking the C2C from St Bees to Whitby. Walking it does not appeal at all, but they were loving it and had booked accommodation every night, I get that appreciating the luxuries after a hard physical day makes the luxury so much sweeter, they certainly were having a great time.

We pushed on south around Tebay, all quite surreal as we were on minute deserted lanes, yards from the M6. We crossed over the M6 twice. It has been a lumpy old day, Steve still did 85km and 1350m of ascent without Great Dun Fell. A long old pull up and we were fairly certain it was downhill from now on. So a brief refuel on a conveniently located bench with a view.

Eventually we came into Sedburgh and did laps of the high street looking for a supermarket (technically called resupply when on a bike tour!) It turned out the only one was a Spar way off down a hill, once done we climbed back up and bought ourselves a 14" pizza and chips at a previously spotted location. I bungeed the box on top of the tent and off we went to find the campsite that turned out to be quite a way away up n down dale, even resorted to walking at one point! the forecast rain had set in properly since Sedburgh, we found the campsite, eventually found right building to go with campsite to book in from afar and squelched our way across the camping field to pitch for our first night in the rain and a very sodden field. There was plenty of space. An old school campsite.

Waiting for takeaway

It was a very good pizza, we wolfed it all down, fortunately it had remained dry but was quite cool by now. Chips were dispatched, and a brew was brewed. We made sure the footprint was tucked under the inner, and our sleeping bags on the full length mats. We knew the forecast was pretty hideous for the night and Monday. Our MSR tent seems to leak badly from underneath in wet weather.

Day 2 Sedburgh to Eskdale Green 116km 2006m

Last night was extremely wet. We managed to stay dryish on our sleep mats but there were puddles in the tent from underneath, it doesn't come in from above. I think we need to speak to MSR, it was not a cheap tent and we've tried everything as the weather is always foul at some point when we're away, we don't think it is designed for boggy pitches, more like Arizona dessert. We pack up in the pouring rain, it's not forecast to let up so no point in delaying, we have a very long day. We're supposed to be going to Gawthorp and up onto the Dales but last night decided it may be a bit treacherous and to avoid a repeat of last time when we had to abort our tour at Broughton in Furness, we decided to cut that bit out and just head west towards the M6 and Kendal. 

We took the wrong turn out of the campsite and ended up in Gawthrop anyway, 15km later we were back where we started and then did that horrible main road towards Kendal. I was not in charge of this route change and kept very quiet!

Basically we saved ourselves no distance nor height but heh ho. Weather was pretty hideous in Gawthrop and all the way to Newby Bridge (at the southern foot of Windermere) via Oxenholme, Sizergh and Grange over Sands. Once we rejoined the planned route it was very enjoyable, a good route, and a respite from the hills for a bit anyway! We spied a farm shop/cafe sign and diverted off nr Sizergh Castle and it was open and seating indoors. A very satisfactory burger and rarebit and hot coffees fuelled us and kept us on track.

It was too early/soon for tea in Grange over Sands so we pushed on, very aware of the time. I paused appropriately here.

The hills returned as we pushed towards Broughton in Furness. This is the weather improving a bit now. 

We finally make Broughton for 6 and head into the Kings Arms again like last time! Of course we have to sign in, find our masks, had an orange and lemonade and are determined not to be defeated again.

We certainly finished with hills up the Duddon Valley, and the route didn't even declare the 25% Ulpha vertical bank we knew was there but pretended not to remember how steep. We didn't even try, just walked it, on and on and on! but in other news it was clearing up, the sky was quite blue and once up the &^%$& Ulpha bank it was utterly glorious high up on the common. The SSE had increased to near gale force and shifted to a westerly. Riding along with mouth wide open glorious, in spite of the wind. Thankfully there was a beck at the top as we were totally out of water and even passed an honesty cake and egg stand at the car park that at any other time I would have pounced on. I was rather worried as I knew reception at the campsite closed at 8 and we would be later than that. I left messages with my brother and on the campsite phone but didn't tell Steve, he didn't need any more pressure. 

Then there was the descent to Eskdale Green, it was utterly magnificent, finally we ate up 10km in respectable time and were at the campsite. Basically a 12 hr day to do just over 100km! Fortunately the reception had not closed, we had had to reserve a £28.50 pitch to get on the site, managed to get it down to £20, nowhere is doing backpacker rates this year. It was heaving, but we managed to find my brother and his family who had booked for 5 nights and arrived on Sunday, we thought we'd be seeing them in Durham later in the week when planning! We had a pack of dried chilli and fortunately they subbed lots of extras like cheese and bread and their spag bol leftovers. We hoovered the lot. Then I lifted the tent off my bike, it weighed a ton, I had not strapped it on in the morning. The sun was gone and we attempted to air it a bit but in the end I had to use our micro towel to mop out the puddles. The children were tending a lovely pit fire and toasting marshmallows. We couldn't face the heaving shower block so skipped a shower and retired as the rain closed in again. Feeling pretty tired but elated we had managed to make Eskdale in one piece, just!

I finally wore my Christmas fake down puffa jacket for the first time, it's never cold enough in Bristol!

Day 3 Eskdale Green via St Bees/Whitehaven/Workington to Penrith 120km 1686m

After a slightly better night's sleep but still pretty damp as it rained on and off all night, we knew it was going to be hard to get away early. It was raining first thing  so we took the hospitality of a cooked breakfast in my brother's family tent. They certainly made the difference in us not abandoning. Today was a big day too, to get back to Penrith, a bit less height but hopefully the weather should improve.

The rain would not abate so we packed up sopping wet again, and finally got away nearer 10.30 than 9.30. We were risking bare legs today with rain jackets.  The first stretch was hard work lumpy and a headwind gale towards Gosforth and the coast. We were deliberately deviating a little from the Dales and Lakes loop to make sure we started the C2C properly today too by visiting the seaside, I'm not sure it's ethical to count the same day as the finish of one tour and the start of the second, but we did. Our roolz!

The rain abated at last and we finally turned north so there was just a cross gale to contend with. We whizzed down into St Bees and saw no cafés so diverted down to the sea, and found a takeaway cafe only. We had a coffee anyway but it was a huddle to keep warm. big hill out! We should have pushed on as Whitehaven was far nicer than I expected. We lived in Barrow in Furness in the late 80s, a grim town, but rumour had it Whitehaven/Workington were worse, we never visited. A very merry local resident pointed out the C2C starting point so photo duly taken we headed towards the centre. I spy Subway, perfect, I would not say that in normal life but on an audax/tour just what we wanted.

We found a bench by the harbour and hung onto our subs firmly keeping wind and seagulls at bay.

The path out of Whitehaven was very enjoyable, then a huge ramp appeared. we puffed up the 10% and continued to Workington where we turned inland towards delightful Cockermouth, no time for tea again. We were rejoining the Dales and Lakes route now and not just heading towards Keswick and Penrith (C2C official route) but looping north onto Uldale Common above Bassenthwaite lake and skirting all the way round Skiddaw to the north before looping back to Penrith from the north. The turn inland may have meant the mother of all tailwinds at last but we were basically climbing for 40km.

It was fabulous cycling. Big yomp up to Uldale Common. Love it up there. Then a mega descent towards Caldbeck and we were blown back to Penrith for a hot shower, dry bed and a fabulous homre cooked lasagne at mum and dad’s. Is it cheating to have 1 day covering 2 different tours? Steve was incredible, I thought we may be getting the train back today. He was certainly suffering, I ride far more than he does. We had already decided there was going to be a rest day tomorrow, the alternative was abandoning Part 2.

Part 2 coming up......C2C Tyne and Wear and Hadrians Wall.