Showing posts with label ferry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ferry. Show all posts

Sunday, October 13, 2019

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 5 Islay: Port Charlotte to Mull: Craignure via Oban Wednesday 12th June 2019

Day 5

Today 29 km 232m Ferries: 2 Port Askaig>Oban Oban>Craignure
Tour to date: 304km 3265m Ferries: 5 Islands: 3
Shieling Campsite, Craignure Isle of Mull. Pot of Gold on Ardnamurchan!
From Strava: A north easterly gale 💨 for our 25km yomp north east for lunchtime ferry from Port Askaig. Hard work! At least the ferry was running. 2 sporks and a Lidl food shop in Oban and back for evening ferry to Mull -Craignure. Steve has a slow puncture.


We had tied the tent to the fence yesterday at Port Mor campsite near Port Charlotte, the wind has dropped a little this morning. It's still a perishing cold north easterly, but the morning brew was appreciated! We only have 25km to ride to Port Askaig today, for the twice weekly lunchtime ferry back to Oban, whatever happens we cannot miss it!
Good morning campers from Port Mor campsite Port Charlotte
We strike camp and leave by 9.15am. We should have hours of free time (ferry is 12.15) but the wind was just having a brief respite at breakfast and is back up to a good force 6 north easterly again, the perennial headwind! 
The Strand, Uskentuie Isle of  Islay
We push past another gorgeous beach coming into Bridgend. I miss the turn and we go back and promptly end up on gravelly farm track for a couple of miles but come out again past Bridgend. That's the gnarly off road done for today.
Looking back to Port Charlotte
We carry on hacking into that wind, the lay of the land is lumpier now riding into the relentless and brutal headwind (Steve's favourite word of the holiday) Did I mention the HEADWIND?! The 25km to Port Askaig had taken us exactly 2 hours, and it's not like we weren't trying! With a whoop and a swish down the switchback to the harbour we do still have time for a coffee at the Port Askaig Inn. Just one hour until the ferry sails. Fortunately we had no mechanicals as missing the twice weekly ferry to Oban was not an option. I may have already mentioned that as missing this ferry was not a minor inconvenience!!
Port Askaig Islay coffee stop waiting for ferry
Are there more whiskies than just Jura?
We board the 4 hour CalMac ferry#4 back to Oban and set sail at 12.15. There is an amber weather warning, and the captain is quite wary of his ability to dock at Colonsay to pick up passengers there. in the end with some skilful seamanship, they get lots of practice round these parts, we did pick up the Colonsay passengers and settled down to a recharging everything frenzy. I spent most of the crossing chatting to a lovely lady from Islay who was off for a mini tour of the Outer Hebrides staying in the hostels. We ate something for lunch, Cal Mac food is food, plenty of calories but not much more. Friendly staff though.

We dock at 16.15 and have exactly 2 hours until our ferry to Craignure. This does feel like "re-positioning day" but we will get a full day cycling tomorrow by avoiding an overnight in Oban. An impressive audax style "no faff" run into the ticket office for our Mull return tickets was our first stop.

Steve wants to go and see if the car is OK, I will not let him because if it's not OK it will wreck the rest of our holiday. There is an argument for more clothes from the car, but we don't really have anything in the car that will help. So we stop first at Mountain Warehouse. Very fortuitously, their merino base layers are about 75% off so we purchase a winter long sleeve one each, and two more sporks. Cos we snapped one spork and a second spork is free, we now have a spare. Sporks are us. We also purchased a gas canister for the stove. Then we headed to Lidl for a picnic dinner tonight and breakfast and lunch supplies for tomorrow. As ever it feels very strange being in civilisation, a choice of food is exciting but otherwise a loud interlude in our peaceful existence. It's not like Oban is a huge place but it feels it when you're living out in the wilds.
Back in Oban queuing for a different ferry, Craignure, Mull this time.
We form an orderly queue of 2 bikes for ferry#5 Oban to Craignure at 18.10. We dock at 19.00 and hop on our bikes for a kilometre to the pre booked Shieling Campsite, left and left again. The threatening rain is holding off, and we have a prime sea view astro turf pitch, with midges as the wind has subsided. That's a first. Steve notices he has a soft tyre. He changes the inner tube, slightly annoyed the new inner tube on his old wheel wasn't swapped over with the new tyre, a really old perished inner tube is in there. We're relieved it didn't go on the race for the ferry on Islay.

We gathered up picnic stuff and retire to the mess tent as the heavens open, we were running anyway as the midges were out in force. It's very comfy with tables chairs (a television too but I hate television bursting the bubble on holiday), hobs, kettles, toasters, a fridge and freezer, games box, wood burner (purchase logs) and plug sockets. It seems Scottish camping doesn't mean holing up in your tent for days in bad weather or escaping midges  any more. Very clever marketing to get you to stay and not abandon a holiday I suppose. The ablutions tent is next door so a luxurious hot shower each was enjoyed. These tiny man made micro towels do do the job but a proper towel is a bit of a dream. A hard fought game of scrabble and we head off to bed now wearing 5 layers in our sleeping bags. There's a pot of gold on the Ardnamurchan peninsular as the sun peeps through late evening after the rain. The re-positioning day has gone well.
Slow puncture repair Shieling Campsite Craignure
Insta:

 Bye bye #Islay hello #Mull. We worked our way back to #PortAskaig from #PortCharlottee this morning, only 25km but into the teeth of a north easterly gale. There were mutterings in the peloton. Still plenty of time for a coffee before the twice weekly Islay-Oban service, we could not afford to miss it. We’ve really seen much more of Islay and Jura this time, superb. 4 hours later we dock in Oban, a quick purchase of another spork, one between two isn’t enough Then Lidl for picnic supplies. We have 5 layers on in the queue the wind has been so cold today. Rain held off until tent pitched at Craignure on AstroTurf and the sunset resulted in a rainbow 🌈 and hence a pot of gold on #ardnamurchan #cycling #cycletouring #innerhebrides #PuffingPuffinsTour2019

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Friday, October 04, 2019

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 3 Jura: Craighouse - Islay: Claggain Bay via Oa peninsula Monday 10th June 2019

Day 3

Today 80km 977m Ferries: 1 Jura - Port Askaig Islay
Tour to date: 170km 2103m Ferries: 3 Islands: 2
American Cemetary Oa Peninsular Islay
My Strava entry for the day: Another awesome day of adventure. Steve lost a spoke in Port Askaig. Limped to Port Ellen over the glorious moors, stunning day. Jim of Islay bike’s saves the day with a new old wheel with far more spokes in. He didn’t have any of the funny spikes on Steve’s wheels which we now know shouldn’t be touring. Meanwhile we have pizza and Caesar salad in Port Ellen and continue our plan of hacking up to the American monument on Oa peninsular. Just breathtaking scenery, birds, flowers. Back to Port Ellen for picnic supplies and out to Claggain Bay past 3 whisky distilleries with a dedicated bike path. Up and down all the way. Tent pitched but v windy!
Good morning campers from Jura
Jura Paradise
Yes this is the Inner Hebrides. What a glorious morning. Today we are on it. Tea breakfast and packed by 9.30am. We have a ferry to catch. The wind is still cold! Rolling the air mat and stuffing the sleeping bag is the critical pinch point of efficient packing up, most days we have to do it all in the tent but today is dry.

On our last trip we didn't do Islay justice, a peat bog tour which we are repeating today but adding the Oa peninsula and American memorial and riding out past Port Ellen to camp at Claggain Bay, pretty much at the end of the road on the SE coast.

Waiting for the Feolin Ferry to Port Askaig
We reverse our route back to the ferry for the hop across from Jura to Port Askaig on Islay. The known heck of a haul out of the harbour. It was not that bad at all. The mind plays strange tricks with hills. Especially hills out of ferry ports. 

Except it was spinning up out of Port Askaig when Steve realises his back wheel was not right. A broken spoke. We make our way across the grouse moors very gingerly. Internally I'm panicking. We have a spoke with us but... when I get phone signal I google, there is a bike shop in Port Ellen, Islay Cycles. Fortunately it is Monday. Thankfully Jim answers the phone. We explain our predicament and arrange to meet at lunchtime. It was a lovely ride across the moors, tainted by the worry of a wobbly wheel.
We don't turn off to the Oa peninsular as planned and roll into Port Ellen. after a couple of wrong turns we realise we are right, the bike shop is Jim's house. His back garden is chock a block with hundreds of bikes in various states of repair, covered by many tarpaulins. I'm sure he knew what he had.

We got told off, Steve's bike, especially his wheels, are nowhere near tough enough for touring apparently. He's on the weight limit for the frame without luggage. I hadn't twigged he had new wheels since the last trip. Apparently his spoke nipples were quite odd too, turned out Jim didn't have any of that type. Ohh err missus. Jim was quite confident he could come up with something and dispatched us off into town for lunch. He gleefully stated that next day delivery is a week in these parts. We had a nice pizza but somewhat tainted by the worry that we may be catching a ferry back to Oban and it may be the end of the tour.
Port Ellen: Marmalade Ice Cream from Arran!

I liked the look of the ice creams in a gift shop, the marmalade one was divine. We walk back up to Jim's house/Islay Cycles and there is Steve's bike ready to go. He's found a new old wheel, £50 for make do and mend, he keeps the old one for running repairs for the next idiot that rolls into town on inadequate equipment. Steve's new tyre has been swapped over. What a hero. Jim saves the day. The tent is transferred to my bike. We have enough time still to see the Oa peninsular even though it's 3pm. Yeah to Scottish summer daylight hours.
Oa Peninsular is lumpy
We ride out of Port Ellen and up towards the RSPB reserve. Short steep ramps for 5 miles. 
Yes, that is a cyclist walking, without a bike
We leave the bikes in the car park and walk the mile across the grasslands to the American Monument on the cliffs. so much wildlife, so many birds. The whole holiday the joyous birdsong was ever prevalent. Unfortunately we didn't see any Golden Eagles, on Islay. Visibility was incredible but a biting strong north easterly is keeping the temperature down. It's exhilarating.
American Monument Oa
The American Monument is a memorial to hundreds of American first World War servicemen who perished when two ships were sunk/ lost off Islay in 1918. The plaque read: 

"On fame's eternal camping ground, Their silent tents are spread, while glory keeps with solemn round, the bivouac of the dead." 

Very moving being expressed in familiar parlance to us.
American Monument Oa


















Back down we go

Back down past the American Cemetery which is meticulously kept.

American Cemetery Oa peninsular
We run back down into Port Ellen and call in at the Co Op for dinner supplies. I am carrying a musette and food stops have to fit into that so we know we can stow it all. We spot a public convenience and use that. Water bottles are topped up. We pedal on through town and out along the Whisky Trail on a metalled cycle path past Laphraoig Distillery then Lagavulin Distillery and finally Ardbeg. They are all finished for the day so it was nice and peaceful. We enjoy the quiet road for 15km along the coast, rolling as ever. We come into the sweep of Claggain Bay, a scattering of motor homes wild "camping" but no tents. Boy was it windy. 9.30pm and we battled to get the tent up in the wind with the sun still shining. We had an indoor picnic and although I had imagined wild swimming here it was just far too bitter. That near gale is still north easterly!
Perishing NE wind

Claggain Bay, SE Islay
10pm 
It's not really getting dark. This is what wild camping is about, The above photo was taken at 10pm and I woke at 3.30am and took the photos below of the sunrise. I think the silence followed by the dawn chorus woke me, the wind had abated. Just magical.



Today was a bit worrying but we solved a serious mechanical through luck and judgement and still achieved the day's aims and thoroughly enjoyed it. There is much more to Islay than the grouse moors.

 
Insta: Day 3 Stunning weather, #IsleofJura to #IsleofIslay Broken spoke #PortAskaig new old wheel by fantastic Jim of #IslayBikes in #PortEllen. Stunning weather, brisk northerly. Lots climbing on #Oa to the #americanmonumentislay and then out to #claggainbay on SE corner for #wildcamping #InnerHebrides #cycling #cycletouring #camping #PuffingPuffinsTour2019 Do not come here it’s horrible

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Monday, August 08, 2016

Tour d'Ecosse Day 3 Jura-Tayvallich to Oban Monday 4th July 2016

Day 3 Jura-Tayvallich to Oban 71km 878m ascent
Cumulative 222km 2778m ascent Ferries 5 Islands 3
Jura Passenger Ferry Jura to Tayvallich
Weather alert, very brave in shorts. Dreich* plus a bit. Midges...man eating! 500m from hotel to ferry terminal (aka pier) and the blighters chomped my legs!!  I still love Jura. 

*From the UrbanDictionary.com  "A combination of dull, overcast, drizzly, cold, misty and miserable weather." At least 4 of the above adjectives must apply.

Weeks before, after seeing a reference to the Jura Passenger Ferry in Richard Barrett's superb Cycling in the Hebrides book (that we based our holiday on), I had booked us and our bikes on the first ferry at 8.45 from Jura to Tayvallich on the mainland. Ferry #5

We said goodbye to the lovely Jura Hotel after a superb breakfast, packed up the panniers and sauntered down to the dock. We were getting better at this routine already. Here is the plan:
 Originally we had wanted to take the CalMac sailing to Oban (from Port Askaig) possibly via Colonsay, where on a Wednesday or a Saturday you can spend 4-7 hours on the island arriving from the twice weekly Islay-Colonsay-Oban service  and then get the daily Colonsay-Oban CalMac ferry in the evening. However we routed it we could not make it work for a Saturday or Wednesday without having to cut the plan elsewhere, as days go to waste. Even if we had parked in Oban and worked the route as a figure of 8 we were scuppered. But Richard's excellent book mentioned that the private Jura Ferry runs daily, and fortunately it still has funding and is running, but you need to book, as there is limited bike space and only 2 crossings a day (none on Wednesday and only 1 on Sunday). This "Plan B" then entailed cycling up to Oban from Tayvallich. The crossing (around an hour) was a bit more exciting than CalMac, but we didn't see any seals as it was so claggy.
Tayvallich
Tayvallich has a highly recommended Inn that serves delicious seafood, we were told, and a 7 day a week community shop and café, where we spent some pennies in the shop on lunch and bananas as the café stop isn't allowed before any effort has been expended! As we had already found,  there are often are no cafés when you want one, so emergency supplies to last the day are necessary "just in case." It's also very picturesque and remote. Route finding is not hard when there is only one road. It skimmed the wooded shore and was very picturesque. The weather dried up a bit and we waited ten minutes for a swing bridge to be swung so we could proceed on our way to Oban. I am sure we had a cereal bar or a banana as we appreciated the scenery and waved at the yachts chugging through.
Patiently waiting at the lock
Slow boat to ....
The terrain got lumpier and we did end up on a dirt cycle track at one point that would have been perfect on a mountain bike but was at the limit of the road bikes. Mightily relieved when we escaped back to the road. We joined the main A816 and the first of three big lumpy bumps today. We reckon anything over 100m ascent to 10km distance classes as lumpy...we exceeded that ratio today, and most days. I spotted a sign for a marina and cafe/pub/restaurant at the bottom of Loch Melfort and we diverted a couple of miles for lunch. Big mistake. Well, it added on a hell of a kick of a lump and after that diversions for nice looking cafés were rarely allowed. This turned out to be a very run of the mill pub and we had a perfectly OK soup and ploughmans but it was not worth the detour! Snotty Yotties all tied up in the marina, as ex-dinghy sailors call them ;) We are booked to stay at Loch Melfort next week, but the other end.
Loch Melfort marina
The rain returned and got steadily heavier as we hauled our way over the lumps to Oban. To be honest it was not very pleasant, not that much traffic for a trunk road but an artic or bus every now and then, no alternative route and it was the main road to Oban from the South. Coming into Oban we got a bit lost round the suburbs and had a couple of false starts tracking our B&B down which was up a ruddy hill of course! It did mean there was a great view.

 We did feel a little out of place arriving like wet otters dripping at the lovely Sawdays recommended Greystones. I had been very lucky that they had had a one night gap as this place is usually full and only takes bookings for 2 nights plus unless a gap. All the rooms here have a stunning view of the harbour and the ferries coming and going, it was worth that last climb! We were also kindly allowed to leave our bikes in the shed, which entailed a cross country style yomp down slippy steps in the garden. We were very glad to get to our lovely room and start the nightly hot shower, washing shorts, drying off us and clothes, warming up and eating routine. Very nice home made Florentines were left out for us on the tea tray. I am very good at weighing up a B&B by their complimentary tea trays.Home made offerings are essential. Greystones was excellent. The architecture was very Scottish and very stylishly updated, and had originally been the Maternity hospital. No ghosts of labouring mothers though. I took this picture later on when it had stopped raining and we had cleaned up a bit! Again a 2-3 night stay here would be great. Walking distance to the centre but very peaceful.
Greystones B&B - not the laird
Oban
View from our bedroom at Greystones
Oban Harbour
Oban Prom
Oh look, a whisky distillery, Oban
We walked into town having managed to get an early booking at The Waterfront Fishouse on the CalMac pier. The early-bird £13.99 (and lunch) menu was good value and delicious but not quite enough for two hungry cyclists so we did partake of dessert too, which bumped the bill up a lot! Eat here, but watch what you order. We didn't stay out late, and as this was the fanciest B&B we were staying at we went back to appreciate our room, although not a stunning sunset it was still a breathtaking view. We may also have had a complimentary sherry that was left out for guests, a nice touch.
View from our bedroom; time 22.45 !
Touring Tips in Scotland

 1 Try and avoid trunk roads, although not busy by any means rumbling lorries do make for a workhorse approach to "getting done". There were only 2-3 sections in the whole holiday like this, not bad really.

 2 Do not spend the whole holiday dreading the one section of road we knew we were reversing part of later in the holiday. We made the lumps into Mount Everests in our head by the following week. We were fitter by then and laughed at ourselves for making mountains out of molehills, well lumpy molehills but nothing like we remembered!

 3 Wash cycle shorts out whilst having a shower, as if treading grapes, squeeze excess water out at hourly intervals and even with heating you are lucky if they dry by morning. No hope of dry shorts if camping in this weather.
Tour d'Ecosse quick links:

 Planning
Day 1 Isle of Arran and a little Mull of Kintyre
Day 2 Inner Hebrides: Isles of Islay and Jura
Day 3 Inner Hebrides: Isle of Jura-Tayvallich to Oban
Day 4 Oban to Outer Hebrides: Barra and Vatersay
Day 5 Outer Hebrides: Isles of Barra Eriskay South Uist Benbecula Grimsay North Uist Beneray and Harris
Day 6 Outer Hebrides: Isles of Harris and Lewis to Callanish Stones
Day 7 Outer Hebrides: Butt of Ness to Stornoway and Ullapool
Day 8 Ullapool to Gairloch
Day 9 Gairloch to Shieldaig - Applecross Peninsula
Day 10 Bealach na Bà from Applecross to Plockton
Day 11 Plockton to Inner Hebrides: Isle of Skye Armadale
Day 12 Inner Hebrides: Isle of Skye Armadale to Ardnamurchan
Day 13 Ardnamurchan to Inner Hebrides: Isle of Mull to Oban to Loch Melfort
Day 14 Loch Melfort to Tarbert, Loch Fyne
Day 15 Tarbert Loch Fyne to Ardrossan THE END!
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Friday, August 05, 2016

Tour d'Ecosse Day 2 Islay and Jura Sunday 3rd July 2016

Day 2 Islay and Jura 56km 700m ascent
Cumulative 151km 1900m ascent Ferries 4 Islands 3

 Come to Islay but especially Jura, and stay at The Jura Hotel for a night or two. Very reasonable price, contemporary Scottish, not twee and food to die for. The surroundings are not shabby either. We wished we were here another day to mountain bike to the end of the road.

 First the riding, after an excellent 'light' breakfast at Bluebell Cottage on Kintyre we rolled 500m down the hill to Kennacraig, nothing is there but the ferry terminal to Port Askaig and Port Ellen on Islay. We would have preferred Port Ellen but the only ferry on a Sunday is in the evening, so we sailed at 9.30am to Port Askaig (Ferry#3) and planned a shorter circular route to catch the 5 minute hop on the Feolin ferry (Ferry #4) to Jura later, either 16.30 or 18.30.
Boy the pull out of Port Askaig is brutal, 14% hill bends from cold straight off the ferry and into the stiff westerly but although overcast we did stay dry. In a couple of kilometres we have passed two whisky distilleries, but we headed for Bowmore.
I always stop for gratuitous bike pics 
Bowmore Distillery Islay
After a wee dram in the bar we headed off on a short loop, after a failed attempt at finding a decent café. Touring on a Sunday needs very careful planning as so many cafés, restaurants, tourist attractions and nearly all shops are still shut on the Sabbath in the Western Isles. The only tea shop open in Bowmore on a Sunday is grim. Do not go there!

A stiff pull out of Bowmore. This was not to be our resting place!


taking us through sporting estates, very wild heath and moorland.
Sporting estates on Islay, not quite the Glorious 4th thank goodness!
But those horrible bends out of Port Askaig were rewarded with a lovely swoopy descent back down to catch the 16.30 ferry to Jura, and a spare 45 minutes for a cheeky gin and tonic. I heart Botanist Gin now.
Here I fell in love with Botanist Gin...distilled on Islay, waiting for a ferry.
Waiting patiently for Ferry #4
I just love harbours and boats...there will be many shots like this!
Feolin Ferry Islay to Jura £1.50 each and we were the only passengers
Jura's only road!
We swept down the one and only road to Craighouse. Just beautiful, today it was not actually raining. Running into Craighouse was like coming home. We found the Jura Hotel easily and were shown up to our lovely modernised room totally keeping the local character. Steve was convinced it would be awful old Scottish tatty hotel, but the young owners have worked a miracle on this place. It caters for everyone and we did not feel out of place here in our limited wardrobe! We had the cheapest double, so a view of the distillery, not the harbour and a bit smaller but a third less. If we had been staying a few days splashing out on a £120 sea view suite room would have been well worth it.Post hot blissful shower we spent our evening in the characterful public areas, restaurant, bar and village.

 Dinner was stunning, seafood and more, and very very reasonable, as were the wine and bar prices. I would come back here for a short break in a shot. Apparently they are going to start doing mountain biking, sea kayaking and other activities and I suspect these will be very reasonable cost too.  It would have been nice to have had the time to go to the end of the road, explore Islay properly. Climb a Pap or two. Sea Kayaking, fishing.  We are already realising we need twice the time at least!
Craighouse Harbour
As it says on the photo!
After dinner we sauntered around town. we missed a gin tasting that had been on the previous evening and had drained the island of Botanist Gin!
Swanning Around 10pm
Jura is just idyllic.
Touring Tips in Scotland

1 Plan Sundays carefully when touring, shops, cafés and tourist attractions are often shut. The Sabbath is still very important in these areas. I wish it was elsewhere, makes for a nicer pace of life.

2 If you have the time allow 2-3 days per destination. 

3 Every ferry port is at sea level. Every ferry destination means the first few kilometres are littered with expletives as you battle up the first hill cold!

Tour d'Ecosse quick links:

 Planning
Day 1 Isle of Arran and a little Mull of Kintyre
Day 2 Inner Hebrides: Isles of Islay and Jura
Day 3 Inner Hebrides: Isle of Jura-Tayvallich to Oban
Day 4 Oban to Outer Hebrides: Barra and Vatersay
Day 5 Outer Hebrides: Isles of Barra Eriskay South Uist Benbecula Grimsay North Uist Beneray and Harris
Day 6 Outer Hebrides: Isles of Harris and Lewis to Callanish Stones
Day 7 Outer Hebrides: Butt of Ness to Stornoway and Ullapool
Day 8 Ullapool to Gairloch
Day 9 Gairloch to Shieldaig - Applecross Peninsula
Day 10 Bealach na Bà from Applecross to Plockton
Day 11 Plockton to Inner Hebrides: Isle of Skye Armadale
Day 12 Inner Hebrides: Isle of Skye Armadale to Ardnamurchan
Day 13 Ardnamurchan to Inner Hebrides: Isle of Mull to Oban to Loch Melfort
Day 14 Loch Melfort to Tarbert, Loch Fyne
Day 15 Tarbert Loch Fyne to Ardrossan THE END!
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