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Showing posts sorted by relevance for query Puffing Puffins. Sort by date Show all posts

Saturday, March 28, 2020

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 9 Mull: Craignure to Barra: Scurrival via Oban Sunday 16th June 2019

Day 9

Today: 19 km 170m Ferries: 2

Tour to date: 544km 6004m Ferries: 9 Islands: 5
North Barra

Today was mainly travel, of the motorised version. We packed up a soggy otter's tent and wet clothes in Craignure and caught the 9.30 ferry back to Oban. 

Although I will now do anything to avoid Spoons, on principle, I made an exception. Our first call was proper breakfast in Spoons, on our last trip we were fuelled every day by a hearty breakfast as we were staying in B&Bs mainly. Camping breakfasts are somewhat disappointing in comparison!
Steve's best breakfast of the holiday
We then headed off to Lidl for an exciting food shop, it's Sunday so it has to be a big metropolis for a food shop to be open. Nothing will be open on Barra later as we dock at 6pm. We then head over to a generic chain outdoor shop and snag a 66% reduced long sleeve merino base layer each, we’ve been so hypothermic at night. Subsidiary purchases were a gas canister and two new sporks as we broke one, but sporks are BOGOF. Every gram has to earn a place in touring luggage.
As it says on the sign in Oban
We queue an hour before our 13.30 ferry for Castlebay, after buying a dressed crab at my favourite Oban haunt, The Seafood Shack on the pier, for my lunch. Award winning CalMac stodge avoidance strategy.
Queuing for Oban-Casltlebay Cal Mac ferry
Outer Hebrides: Vatersay and Barra
It’s always stunning weather on a two ferry "re-positioning" day. We had the best day weather wise on this ferry on Tour d'Ecosse in 2016 too. We even got the wet lycra surreptitiously dry on the overheated boat.
Castlebay Barra
There is nowhere quite like Barra, except perhaps Norway.
Castlebay Barra


Kisimul Castle, Castlebay Harbour Barra Outer Hebrides Scotland
Near Scurrival Campsite Barra
It was a stunning evening ride up the west coast of Barra, past the airport on the beach, and on to the delightful Scurrival Campsite on the north coast of the island. Lovely welcoming owner "pitch where you want, pay when you want, hope you don't want nightlife, beach is over there" Magical. A cottage housed the shower rooms and full cooking kitchen and dining table for bad/midgy weather. We didn't need to use that tonight!

Camping Scurrival Barra Outer Hebrides Scotland

Thursday, March 05, 2020

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 8 Mull: Calgary Bay to Craignure Saturday 15th June 2019

Day 8

Today: 54 km 688m Ferries: 0
Tour to date: 525km 5834m Ferries: 7 Islands: 4
Isle of Mull Cheese, Tobermory



So wet today, wet tent, wet all day, says my Strava entry for the day. It had poured overnight after our lovely evening in Calgary Bay, we packed up a soaking wet tent in pouring rain, which never let up all day. Just as well today is an easy day in miles, although we were supposed to do some gravelly adventure exploring and I had scoped out a breakfast destination north of Dervaig. It was a lumpy day though, especially around Dervaig. "Brutal" hills and then the gravel, "no way" said Steve so we stuck to tarmac to Tobermory, and more hills into the torrential rain. 

Fortunately I had also scoped out the  Isle of Mull Cheese café for a possible coffee/lunch stop. A beautiful setting in a glass barn with expansive views and a woodburner. Soup and a cheese board were very welcome 
Cheesy lunch at Isle of Mull Cheese
We dithered over lunch, it was so nice drying out a bit. We dallied so long we ended up having afternoon tea as well. We even convince ourselves it was drying up a bit outside. Over 90 minutes of delicious time wasting culinary gluttony enjoying the views and almost not shivering. I bought some cheese in the shop, but sadly it was not a cheese making day so we couldn't delay any further viewing the cheesy process. I'd have loved that.
Afternoon Tea at Isle of Mull Cheese!
We pulled our socks up, put our wet gloves back on along with wet caps and helmets, wet jackets and ventured back out. We didn't have the enthusiasm to drop down into Tobermory town itself, we had visited on a gorgeous morning on our 2016 Tour d'Ecosse The stumbling block was the hill down, or more to the point the hack back up again. We had been stopped for a long time and couldn't justify any more café stops so we pushed on towards Salen. A road we had ridden before. We remembered it being a quick blast but had forgotten the rolling nature of the road. Also as a 2 lane road it's relatively busy as it's the main connecting artery between the island's 3 main ferry terminals.
Salen
My lovely derelict clinker built fishing boats are still at Salen. I stopped to appreciate the rugged beauty of them and took rather too many pictures that I haven't cut down. I just love the weathering and decay. Still plenty of rain but in the drier spells the midges were out in droves. We did not hang about, out sprinting the midges was essential. A speed above 15km/h is necessary, but we are carrying camping kit remember.
Salen

Clinker fishing boats detail Salen, Isle of Mull
Utter beauty

Bye bye Salen boats. A 20km plod back down to Craignure.
The run down to Craignure
Back on The Sheiling Campsite, tent up, hot shower and pub dinner and I lost killer scrabble, we both had scores over 300! Ferry day tomorrow. thank you mull we had a blast, especially on the west coast round Calgary Bay. We still haven't got you out of our system, nor visited Ulva.


Marvellous Mull

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Tuesday, August 20, 2019

Puffing Puffins Day 1 Oban to Isle of Jura Sat 8th June 2019

Day 1 

17km and 175m 2 ferries 2 islands CalMac Oban-Port Askaig Isle of Islay then Feolin Port Askaig-Isle of Jura

Oban: Ready for the grand depart
The pull of Scotland had not left us. We planned another west coast tour, in June to coincide with the fabulous weather on the islands the past 5 Junes... this optimism may be optomistic and may bite us on our butts, along with midges!  This time we wanted to explore in more depth some of the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides that we whizzed through on our Tour d'Ecosse back in 2016. After several evenings faffing with CalMac timetables we decided to adopt a 3 mini tour format to our fortnight, all starting and finishing in Oban.

Sat 8th - Weds 12th June 2019  Inner Hebrides Jura and Islay
Weds 12th - Sun 16th June Inner Hebrides Mull
Sun 16th - Sat 22nd June Outer Hebrides Barra to Harris and return

This gave us options to amend or abort if anything went wrong with us our bikes or weather fairly easily. We also had known resupply in Oban each time we passed through. We managed to avoid having to spend an overnight in Oban by judicious Cal Mac planning and syncing same day transfers to next island.

We tried to make the train work, but we would have lost 2 days of holiday and spent a fortune. Just too much strain from Bristol to Oban, starting from London is fine as you can use the sleeper with no changes and your bike is securely booked on. From Bristol, with all the changes and the risk of not getting bikes on trains with luggage, even if booked, it was too much to risk. So we drove to Oban. 

Fortunately my parents live in the Lakes for a quick Friday night stop over. This time we are camping mainly, it's far less risky to always have your accommodation with you. Self inflating camp mats are the way to go for Puffing Puffins.
Now just to put it all in the 4 panniers between us.
We started with the Islay/Jura tour as there are only two ferries to/from Islay each week. Out 16:45 Oban-Port Askaig Saturday afternoon, back on Wednesday lunchtime. So already we are dictated to time wise. We're not sure how others tour so freely, unless they have weeks stretching ahead of them. Then we worked backwards to make best use of our time. We loved the rugged remoteness of Jura on our last tour and planned to get there on Saturday night and camp at the Jura Hotel for 2 nights, to get acclimatised, and ride as much of the single island road that we could.

We arrived in Oban around 2pm. We have to find somewhere to leave the car and do some food shopping, no shops will be open until Monday morning on Jura. In fact there is only 1 shop in Craighouse. We drove round in circles a lot, bought supplies in Tesco and eventually settled on an industrial estate on the outskirts to park after quadruple checking that there were no parking restrictions nor were we causing any obstructions. Panniers on and my bar bag fixed, the new set up handling took a little getting used to. Only the tent was bungeed onto Steve's rack separately, for the first two days anyway, more of that later! 2.8km down to the ferry terminal and into the ticket office for a return to Islay, with very little time to spare, £19.70 each, bikes are free. The ferry takes 4 hours via Colonsay. we had jsut enough time to munch a late lunch of roll mop herrings and a dressed crab from the seafood shack on the pier.
My bike set up
Sophisticated lashing
Bye bye Oban for now..see you Wednesday


A 4 hour crossing via Colonsay. We had dinner on board, very unmemorable, chilli I think. We sailed the length of Jura up the Corryvreckan strait where George Orwell nearly died before penning 1984, on Jura, in 1949. No whirlpool was sighted.
Ferry life, I loves a ferry me
As we docked we could see our connection. The last Feolin ferry of the day to Jura waits for the boat at Port Askaig by advance telephone request, Unless someone asks for the 21.30 crossing in which case you have to wait for the 21.30 crossing.



Feolin Ferry Port Askaig, Islay
The Feolin ferry takes 5 minutes Port Askaig to Jura

Coming into port Isle of Jura
After disembarking we follow the one island road to Craighouse, a couple of cars leave us to silence. The spell has taken us over and surrounded us already. The spell of the Western Isles. They are magical, and just a little midgy so we don't linger whilst we linger. we had forgotten that there is a bit more up and down than we remembered but 14km later we swoosh into Craighouse.
The east coast of Jura 21.30pm in June


We head into the Jura Hotel to pay for 2 nights camping, £5 a night for both of us and a deposit for the shower block key, £1 per shower. Utterly brilliant. The tent was up in ten minutes, a little slow but we got better as we got into the pitching and striking camp routine. A quick drink in the bar and bed.
Craighouse panorama Jura Distillery is next door to the Jura Hotel
 

Wednesday, January 01, 2020

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 7 Mull: Fionnphort to Calgary Bay Friday 14th June 2019

Day 7

Today 94 km 1116m Ferries: 0
Tour to date: 471km 5146m Ferries: 7 Islands: 4
Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull

We wake to a strong wind at Fidden Farm near Fionnphort, still northerly. We strike camp and fight the flapping tent into it's stuffsack, tents are made of spinnaker material these days and do a good impression of wanting to sail off when I just want to get it into as small a space as possible! Bikes loaded we set off at 10am to retrace our steps for 30km. We know there is no café stop at Pennyghael Post Office today, as the post mistress told us yesterday she was off to a textiles exhibition on the mainland, her only weekend off all summer. So we stopped early on at the shop in Bunessan for the day's supplies, fairly certain that's the only shop today. On we plod into the wind. Then the rain starts. We find several cyclists despondently reading the sign on the closed PO door in Pennyghael and confirm what we know. They are heading to Fionnphort. We take the left and notice a sign for Whitetail Gin and a café and a hotel. We are cold and wet and quite despondent but decide to tackle the extra steep hill and hope the sign is telling the truth. It was, past the hotel we find newly established Whitetail Gin and café and head inside, it's 12.30. Hot drinks and food made all the difference. Chatted with the enterprising young owners and fellow customers who apologised for being "twitchers." I'm not sure why they apologised, I'm jealous because I know nothing about wildlife and only see specks, good for them enjoying the stunning surroundings and having a fascinating interest and enjoying their holiday too.
Whitetail Gin Cafe
Fortified and pleased to see the rain has abated slightly, we head off out at nearly 2pm. We have another 50+km and some immediate sharp climbing round Ben More to conquer. We wend our way around the coast, sweat our way up a sharp pull and see Ulva looming below. Served by a daily ferry, except on Saturdays (today) we couldn't spare the time for 2 days on Ulva and Gometra and really you need mountain bikes if not walking, there are no paved roads on off-grid Ulva, one community café and Ulva Primary School is at the ferry jetty, on Mull! We have passed the escape route to Salen so are committed to getting to Calgary Bay tonight now.
Ulva looming ahead
Ben More off to the right




Basking seal
As we continue skirting the coast we are distracted by all the birds, the sky is clearing and we even "sunbathe" for a while. Steve spots an eagle and I did manage to glimpse it. There is now enough blue sky for a pair of sailor's trousers. It is drop dead gorgeous here.

Looking back to Ulva

We plod up the last big pull of the day and Calgary Bay comes into view.  What a reward for our efforts.
Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull
We swoop down and immediately spot the community camping space by the southern end of the beach with a public toilet block/bins/recycling and water tap funded by donations. There were about half a dozen tents and we easily found a flat spot with a picnic bench and a view. What a view.

Badly Pitched tent
Camping Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull
Finally I get my wild swim, it's perishing cold, campers walking their dogs are wrapped up in fleeces but after shivering into the water eventually, it was a long walk out to get deep enough, two others joined me, in wetsuits. We had a sociable chat about outdoorsy things. Once fully submerged the cold is actually warm, hard to explain but your core gets warm and I wasn't freezing, although I can never feel my hands and feet. quite a long time later I emerged (I did swim too) to Steve holding both micro towels and my fleece to wrap myself in. The exhilaration of cold water wild swimming is so worth the first few minutes of discomfort. Once dry and wrapped up my skin tingled for hours, feeling alive and lucky to be here.
Wild Swim Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull
Calgary Bay
After a nice brew we actually ate a dehydrated chilli we had been carrying all round the Cairngorms last summer. It was food, everything tastes good after a day out in fresh air and in such glorious surroundings. Your senses are so heightened. A lovely sunset concluded a memorable day.


From Insta: #Day7 Yesterday was a day of two halves. Very hypothermic morning to #WhitetailGin from #Fionnphort Finding the café saved abandoning back to ferry. The afternoon up to #CalgaryBay was utterly gorgeous #cycling Rain abated, sun came out, plenty of #hills ending in the most perfect #wildcamp and #wildswim ever. Half way through #PuffingPuffinsTour2019 already#InnerHebrides #cycletouring #Mull



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