Showing posts with label Port Askaig. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Port Askaig. Show all posts

Sunday, October 13, 2019

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 5 Islay: Port Charlotte to Mull: Craignure via Oban Wednesday 12th June 2019

Day 5

Today 29 km 232m Ferries: 2 Port Askaig>Oban Oban>Craignure
Tour to date: 304km 3265m Ferries: 5 Islands: 3
Shieling Campsite, Craignure Isle of Mull. Pot of Gold on Ardnamurchan!
From Strava: A north easterly gale 💨 for our 25km yomp north east for lunchtime ferry from Port Askaig. Hard work! At least the ferry was running. 2 sporks and a Lidl food shop in Oban and back for evening ferry to Mull -Craignure. Steve has a slow puncture.


We had tied the tent to the fence yesterday at Port Mor campsite near Port Charlotte, the wind has dropped a little this morning. It's still a perishing cold north easterly, but the morning brew was appreciated! We only have 25km to ride to Port Askaig today, for the twice weekly lunchtime ferry back to Oban, whatever happens we cannot miss it!
Good morning campers from Port Mor campsite Port Charlotte
We strike camp and leave by 9.15am. We should have hours of free time (ferry is 12.15) but the wind was just having a brief respite at breakfast and is back up to a good force 6 north easterly again, the perennial headwind! 
The Strand, Uskentuie Isle of  Islay
We push past another gorgeous beach coming into Bridgend. I miss the turn and we go back and promptly end up on gravelly farm track for a couple of miles but come out again past Bridgend. That's the gnarly off road done for today.
Looking back to Port Charlotte
We carry on hacking into that wind, the lay of the land is lumpier now riding into the relentless and brutal headwind (Steve's favourite word of the holiday) Did I mention the HEADWIND?! The 25km to Port Askaig had taken us exactly 2 hours, and it's not like we weren't trying! With a whoop and a swish down the switchback to the harbour we do still have time for a coffee at the Port Askaig Inn. Just one hour until the ferry sails. Fortunately we had no mechanicals as missing the twice weekly ferry to Oban was not an option. I may have already mentioned that as missing this ferry was not a minor inconvenience!!
Port Askaig Islay coffee stop waiting for ferry
Are there more whiskies than just Jura?
We board the 4 hour CalMac ferry#4 back to Oban and set sail at 12.15. There is an amber weather warning, and the captain is quite wary of his ability to dock at Colonsay to pick up passengers there. in the end with some skilful seamanship, they get lots of practice round these parts, we did pick up the Colonsay passengers and settled down to a recharging everything frenzy. I spent most of the crossing chatting to a lovely lady from Islay who was off for a mini tour of the Outer Hebrides staying in the hostels. We ate something for lunch, Cal Mac food is food, plenty of calories but not much more. Friendly staff though.

We dock at 16.15 and have exactly 2 hours until our ferry to Craignure. This does feel like "re-positioning day" but we will get a full day cycling tomorrow by avoiding an overnight in Oban. An impressive audax style "no faff" run into the ticket office for our Mull return tickets was our first stop.

Steve wants to go and see if the car is OK, I will not let him because if it's not OK it will wreck the rest of our holiday. There is an argument for more clothes from the car, but we don't really have anything in the car that will help. So we stop first at Mountain Warehouse. Very fortuitously, their merino base layers are about 75% off so we purchase a winter long sleeve one each, and two more sporks. Cos we snapped one spork and a second spork is free, we now have a spare. Sporks are us. We also purchased a gas canister for the stove. Then we headed to Lidl for a picnic dinner tonight and breakfast and lunch supplies for tomorrow. As ever it feels very strange being in civilisation, a choice of food is exciting but otherwise a loud interlude in our peaceful existence. It's not like Oban is a huge place but it feels it when you're living out in the wilds.
Back in Oban queuing for a different ferry, Craignure, Mull this time.
We form an orderly queue of 2 bikes for ferry#5 Oban to Craignure at 18.10. We dock at 19.00 and hop on our bikes for a kilometre to the pre booked Shieling Campsite, left and left again. The threatening rain is holding off, and we have a prime sea view astro turf pitch, with midges as the wind has subsided. That's a first. Steve notices he has a soft tyre. He changes the inner tube, slightly annoyed the new inner tube on his old wheel wasn't swapped over with the new tyre, a really old perished inner tube is in there. We're relieved it didn't go on the race for the ferry on Islay.

We gathered up picnic stuff and retire to the mess tent as the heavens open, we were running anyway as the midges were out in force. It's very comfy with tables chairs (a television too but I hate television bursting the bubble on holiday), hobs, kettles, toasters, a fridge and freezer, games box, wood burner (purchase logs) and plug sockets. It seems Scottish camping doesn't mean holing up in your tent for days in bad weather or escaping midges  any more. Very clever marketing to get you to stay and not abandon a holiday I suppose. The ablutions tent is next door so a luxurious hot shower each was enjoyed. These tiny man made micro towels do do the job but a proper towel is a bit of a dream. A hard fought game of scrabble and we head off to bed now wearing 5 layers in our sleeping bags. There's a pot of gold on the Ardnamurchan peninsular as the sun peeps through late evening after the rain. The re-positioning day has gone well.
Slow puncture repair Shieling Campsite Craignure
Insta:

 Bye bye #Islay hello #Mull. We worked our way back to #PortAskaig from #PortCharlottee this morning, only 25km but into the teeth of a north easterly gale. There were mutterings in the peloton. Still plenty of time for a coffee before the twice weekly Islay-Oban service, we could not afford to miss it. We’ve really seen much more of Islay and Jura this time, superb. 4 hours later we dock in Oban, a quick purchase of another spork, one between two isn’t enough Then Lidl for picnic supplies. We have 5 layers on in the queue the wind has been so cold today. Rain held off until tent pitched at Craignure on AstroTurf and the sunset resulted in a rainbow 🌈 and hence a pot of gold on #ardnamurchan #cycling #cycletouring #innerhebrides #PuffingPuffinsTour2019

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Friday, October 04, 2019

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 3 Jura: Craighouse - Islay: Claggain Bay via Oa peninsula Monday 10th June 2019

Day 3

Today 80km 977m Ferries: 1 Jura - Port Askaig Islay
Tour to date: 170km 2103m Ferries: 3 Islands: 2
American Cemetary Oa Peninsular Islay
My Strava entry for the day: Another awesome day of adventure. Steve lost a spoke in Port Askaig. Limped to Port Ellen over the glorious moors, stunning day. Jim of Islay bike’s saves the day with a new old wheel with far more spokes in. He didn’t have any of the funny spikes on Steve’s wheels which we now know shouldn’t be touring. Meanwhile we have pizza and Caesar salad in Port Ellen and continue our plan of hacking up to the American monument on Oa peninsular. Just breathtaking scenery, birds, flowers. Back to Port Ellen for picnic supplies and out to Claggain Bay past 3 whisky distilleries with a dedicated bike path. Up and down all the way. Tent pitched but v windy!
Good morning campers from Jura
Jura Paradise
Yes this is the Inner Hebrides. What a glorious morning. Today we are on it. Tea breakfast and packed by 9.30am. We have a ferry to catch. The wind is still cold! Rolling the air mat and stuffing the sleeping bag is the critical pinch point of efficient packing up, most days we have to do it all in the tent but today is dry.

On our last trip we didn't do Islay justice, a peat bog tour which we are repeating today but adding the Oa peninsula and American memorial and riding out past Port Ellen to camp at Claggain Bay, pretty much at the end of the road on the SE coast.

Waiting for the Feolin Ferry to Port Askaig
We reverse our route back to the ferry for the hop across from Jura to Port Askaig on Islay. The known heck of a haul out of the harbour. It was not that bad at all. The mind plays strange tricks with hills. Especially hills out of ferry ports. 

Except it was spinning up out of Port Askaig when Steve realises his back wheel was not right. A broken spoke. We make our way across the grouse moors very gingerly. Internally I'm panicking. We have a spoke with us but... when I get phone signal I google, there is a bike shop in Port Ellen, Islay Cycles. Fortunately it is Monday. Thankfully Jim answers the phone. We explain our predicament and arrange to meet at lunchtime. It was a lovely ride across the moors, tainted by the worry of a wobbly wheel.
We don't turn off to the Oa peninsular as planned and roll into Port Ellen. after a couple of wrong turns we realise we are right, the bike shop is Jim's house. His back garden is chock a block with hundreds of bikes in various states of repair, covered by many tarpaulins. I'm sure he knew what he had.

We got told off, Steve's bike, especially his wheels, are nowhere near tough enough for touring apparently. He's on the weight limit for the frame without luggage. I hadn't twigged he had new wheels since the last trip. Apparently his spoke nipples were quite odd too, turned out Jim didn't have any of that type. Ohh err missus. Jim was quite confident he could come up with something and dispatched us off into town for lunch. He gleefully stated that next day delivery is a week in these parts. We had a nice pizza but somewhat tainted by the worry that we may be catching a ferry back to Oban and it may be the end of the tour.
Port Ellen: Marmalade Ice Cream from Arran!

I liked the look of the ice creams in a gift shop, the marmalade one was divine. We walk back up to Jim's house/Islay Cycles and there is Steve's bike ready to go. He's found a new old wheel, £50 for make do and mend, he keeps the old one for running repairs for the next idiot that rolls into town on inadequate equipment. Steve's new tyre has been swapped over. What a hero. Jim saves the day. The tent is transferred to my bike. We have enough time still to see the Oa peninsular even though it's 3pm. Yeah to Scottish summer daylight hours.
Oa Peninsular is lumpy
We ride out of Port Ellen and up towards the RSPB reserve. Short steep ramps for 5 miles. 
Yes, that is a cyclist walking, without a bike
We leave the bikes in the car park and walk the mile across the grasslands to the American Monument on the cliffs. so much wildlife, so many birds. The whole holiday the joyous birdsong was ever prevalent. Unfortunately we didn't see any Golden Eagles, on Islay. Visibility was incredible but a biting strong north easterly is keeping the temperature down. It's exhilarating.
American Monument Oa
The American Monument is a memorial to hundreds of American first World War servicemen who perished when two ships were sunk/ lost off Islay in 1918. The plaque read: 

"On fame's eternal camping ground, Their silent tents are spread, while glory keeps with solemn round, the bivouac of the dead." 

Very moving being expressed in familiar parlance to us.
American Monument Oa


















Back down we go

Back down past the American Cemetery which is meticulously kept.

American Cemetery Oa peninsular
We run back down into Port Ellen and call in at the Co Op for dinner supplies. I am carrying a musette and food stops have to fit into that so we know we can stow it all. We spot a public convenience and use that. Water bottles are topped up. We pedal on through town and out along the Whisky Trail on a metalled cycle path past Laphraoig Distillery then Lagavulin Distillery and finally Ardbeg. They are all finished for the day so it was nice and peaceful. We enjoy the quiet road for 15km along the coast, rolling as ever. We come into the sweep of Claggain Bay, a scattering of motor homes wild "camping" but no tents. Boy was it windy. 9.30pm and we battled to get the tent up in the wind with the sun still shining. We had an indoor picnic and although I had imagined wild swimming here it was just far too bitter. That near gale is still north easterly!
Perishing NE wind

Claggain Bay, SE Islay
10pm 
It's not really getting dark. This is what wild camping is about, The above photo was taken at 10pm and I woke at 3.30am and took the photos below of the sunrise. I think the silence followed by the dawn chorus woke me, the wind had abated. Just magical.



Today was a bit worrying but we solved a serious mechanical through luck and judgement and still achieved the day's aims and thoroughly enjoyed it. There is much more to Islay than the grouse moors.

 
Insta: Day 3 Stunning weather, #IsleofJura to #IsleofIslay Broken spoke #PortAskaig new old wheel by fantastic Jim of #IslayBikes in #PortEllen. Stunning weather, brisk northerly. Lots climbing on #Oa to the #americanmonumentislay and then out to #claggainbay on SE corner for #wildcamping #InnerHebrides #cycling #cycletouring #camping #PuffingPuffinsTour2019 Do not come here it’s horrible

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Tuesday, August 20, 2019

Puffing Puffins Day 1 Oban to Isle of Jura Sat 8th June 2019

Day 1 

 17km and 175m 2 ferries 2 islands CalMac Oban-Port Askaig Isle of Islay then Feolin Port Askaig-Isle of Jura
Oban: Ready for the grand depart
The pull of Scotland had not left us. We planned another west coast tour, in June to coincide with the fabulous weather on the islands the past 5 Junes... this optimism may be optomistic and may bite us on our butts, along with midges!  This time we wanted to explore in more depth some of the islands of the Inner and Outer Hebrides that we whizzed through on our Tour d'Ecosse back in 2016. After several evenings faffing with CalMac timetables we decided to adopt a 3 mini tour format to our fortnight, all starting and finishing in Oban.

 Sat 8th - Weds 12th June 2019  Inner Hebrides Jura and Islay
Weds 12th - Sun 16th June Inner Hebrides Mull
Sun 16th - Sat 22nd June Outer Hebrides Barra to Harris and return

 This gave us options to amend or abort if anything went wrong with us our bikes or weather fairly easily. We also had known resupply in Oban each time we passed through. We managed to avoid having to spend an overnight in Oban by judicious Cal Mac planning and syncing same day transfers to next island.

 We tried to make the train work, but we would have lost 2 days of holiday and spent a fortune. Just too much strain from Bristol to Oban, starting from London is fine as you can use the sleeper with no changes and your bike is securely booked on. From Bristol, with all the changes and the risk of not getting bikes on trains with luggage, even if booked, it was too much to risk. So we drove to Oban. 

 Fortunately my parents live in the Lakes for a quick Friday night stop over. This time we are camping mainly, it's far less risky to always have your accommodation with you. Self inflating camp mats are the way to go for Puffing Puffins.
Now just to put it all in the 4 panniers between us.
We started with the Islay/Jura tour as there are only two ferries to/from Islay each week. Out 16:45 Oban-Port Askaig Saturday afternoon, back on Wednesday lunchtime. So already we are dictated to time wise. We're not sure how others tour so freely, unless they have weeks stretching ahead of them. Then we worked backwards to make best use of our time. We loved the rugged remoteness of Jura on our last tour and planned to get there on Saturday night and camp at the Jura Hotel for 2 nights, to get acclimatised, and ride as much of the single island road that we could.

 We arrived in Oban around 2pm. We have to find somewhere to leave the car and do some food shopping, no shops will be open until Monday morning on Jura. In fact there is only 1 shop in Craighouse. We drove round in circles a lot, bought supplies in Tesco and eventually settled on an industrial estate on the outskirts to park after quadruple checking that there were no parking restrictions nor were we causing any obstructions. Panniers on and my bar bag fixed, the new set up handling took a little getting used to. Only the tent was bungeed onto Steve's rack separately, for the first two days anyway, more of that later! 2.8km down to the ferry terminal and into the ticket office for a return to Islay, with very little time to spare, £19.70 each, bikes are free. The ferry takes 4 hours via Colonsay. we had jsut enough time to munch a late lunch of roll mop herrings and a dressed crab from the seafood shack on the pier.
My bike set up
Sophisticated lashing
Bye bye Oban for now..see you Wednesday


 A 4 hour crossing via Colonsay. We had dinner on board, very unmemorable, chilli I think. We sailed the length of Jura up the Corryvreckan strait where George Orwell nearly died before penning 1984, on Jura, in 1949. No whirlpool was sighted.
Ferry life, I loves a ferry me
As we docked we could see our connection. The last Feolin ferry of the day to Jura waits for the boat at Port Askaig by advance telephone request, Unless someone asks for the 21.30 crossing in which case you have to wait for the 21.30 crossing.

Feolin Ferry Port Askaig, Islay
The Feolin ferry takes 5 minutes Port Askaig to Jura

Coming into port Isle of Jura
After disembarking we follow the one island road to Craighouse, a couple of cars leave us to silence. The spell has taken us over and surrounded us already. The spell of the Western Isles. They are magical, and just a little midgy so we don't linger whilst we linger. we had forgotten that there is a bit more up and down than we remembered but 14km later we swoosh into Craighouse.
The east coast of Jura 21.30pm in June


 We head into the Jura Hotel to pay for 2 nights camping, £5 a night for both of us and a deposit for the shower block key, £1 per shower. Utterly brilliant. The tent was up in ten minutes, a little slow but we got better as we got into the pitching and striking camp routine. A quick drink in the bar and bed.
Craighouse panorama Jura Distillery is next door to the Jura Hotel
 
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Friday, August 05, 2016

Tour d'Ecosse Day 2 Islay and Jura Sunday 3rd July 2016

Day 2 Islay and Jura 56km 700m ascent
Cumulative 151km 1900m ascent Ferries 4 Islands 3

 Come to Islay but especially Jura, and stay at The Jura Hotel for a night or two. Very reasonable price, contemporary Scottish, not twee and food to die for. The surroundings are not shabby either. We wished we were here another day to mountain bike to the end of the road.

 First the riding, after an excellent 'light' breakfast at Bluebell Cottage on Kintyre we rolled 500m down the hill to Kennacraig, nothing is there but the ferry terminal to Port Askaig and Port Ellen on Islay. We would have preferred Port Ellen but the only ferry on a Sunday is in the evening, so we sailed at 9.30am to Port Askaig (Ferry#3) and planned a shorter circular route to catch the 5 minute hop on the Feolin ferry (Ferry #4) to Jura later, either 16.30 or 18.30.
Boy the pull out of Port Askaig is brutal, 14% hill bends from cold straight off the ferry and into the stiff westerly but although overcast we did stay dry. In a couple of kilometres we have passed two whisky distilleries, but we headed for Bowmore.
I always stop for gratuitous bike pics 
Bowmore Distillery Islay
After a wee dram in the bar we headed off on a short loop, after a failed attempt at finding a decent café. Touring on a Sunday needs very careful planning as so many cafés, restaurants, tourist attractions and nearly all shops are still shut on the Sabbath in the Western Isles. The only tea shop open in Bowmore on a Sunday is grim. Do not go there!

A stiff pull out of Bowmore. This was not to be our resting place!


taking us through sporting estates, very wild heath and moorland.
Sporting estates on Islay, not quite the Glorious 4th thank goodness!
But those horrible bends out of Port Askaig were rewarded with a lovely swoopy descent back down to catch the 16.30 ferry to Jura, and a spare 45 minutes for a cheeky gin and tonic. I heart Botanist Gin now.
Here I fell in love with Botanist Gin...distilled on Islay, waiting for a ferry.
Waiting patiently for Ferry #4
I just love harbours and boats...there will be many shots like this!
Feolin Ferry Islay to Jura £1.50 each and we were the only passengers
Jura's only road!
We swept down the one and only road to Craighouse. Just beautiful, today it was not actually raining. Running into Craighouse was like coming home. We found the Jura Hotel easily and were shown up to our lovely modernised room totally keeping the local character. Steve was convinced it would be awful old Scottish tatty hotel, but the young owners have worked a miracle on this place. It caters for everyone and we did not feel out of place here in our limited wardrobe! We had the cheapest double, so a view of the distillery, not the harbour and a bit smaller but a third less. If we had been staying a few days splashing out on a £120 sea view suite room would have been well worth it.Post hot blissful shower we spent our evening in the characterful public areas, restaurant, bar and village.

 Dinner was stunning, seafood and more, and very very reasonable, as were the wine and bar prices. I would come back here for a short break in a shot. Apparently they are going to start doing mountain biking, sea kayaking and other activities and I suspect these will be very reasonable cost too.  It would have been nice to have had the time to go to the end of the road, explore Islay properly. Climb a Pap or two. Sea Kayaking, fishing.  We are already realising we need twice the time at least!
Craighouse Harbour
As it says on the photo!
After dinner we sauntered around town. we missed a gin tasting that had been on the previous evening and had drained the island of Botanist Gin!
Swanning Around 10pm
Jura is just idyllic.
Touring Tips in Scotland

1 Plan Sundays carefully when touring, shops, cafés and tourist attractions are often shut. The Sabbath is still very important in these areas. I wish it was elsewhere, makes for a nicer pace of life.

2 If you have the time allow 2-3 days per destination. 

3 Every ferry port is at sea level. Every ferry destination means the first few kilometres are littered with expletives as you battle up the first hill cold!

Tour d'Ecosse quick links:

 Planning
Day 1 Isle of Arran and a little Mull of Kintyre
Day 2 Inner Hebrides: Isles of Islay and Jura
Day 3 Inner Hebrides: Isle of Jura-Tayvallich to Oban
Day 4 Oban to Outer Hebrides: Barra and Vatersay
Day 5 Outer Hebrides: Isles of Barra Eriskay South Uist Benbecula Grimsay North Uist Beneray and Harris
Day 6 Outer Hebrides: Isles of Harris and Lewis to Callanish Stones
Day 7 Outer Hebrides: Butt of Ness to Stornoway and Ullapool
Day 8 Ullapool to Gairloch
Day 9 Gairloch to Shieldaig - Applecross Peninsula
Day 10 Bealach na Bà from Applecross to Plockton
Day 11 Plockton to Inner Hebrides: Isle of Skye Armadale
Day 12 Inner Hebrides: Isle of Skye Armadale to Ardnamurchan
Day 13 Ardnamurchan to Inner Hebrides: Isle of Mull to Oban to Loch Melfort
Day 14 Loch Melfort to Tarbert, Loch Fyne
Day 15 Tarbert Loch Fyne to Ardrossan THE END!
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