Saturday, October 05, 2019

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 4 Islay: Claggain Bay to Port Charlotte Tuesday 11th June 2019

Day 4

 Today 105km 930m Ferries: 0
Tour to date: 275km 3033m Ferries: 3 Islands: 2

What it says on the barrels. more importantly Botanist Gin is made here too.
From Strava:

 We had to sacrifice a day on Islay when planning so fitted most of a 2 day plan into 1. So glad we did, just stunning. A very strong north to north easterly so a long hack straight to Bowmore We passed 6 of the 8 Islay distilleries today. Such big scenery. We looped round to the north coast and had a picnic lunch overlooking the beach. Blown into Port Charlotte and the campsite at Port Mor. The tent is tied to the fence and off we go without luggage for a 20km loop to Porthnahaven. What a stunning town and harbour. Then up into the hills and headwind. So glad we still did this. A tough but exhilarating day.

 
We struck camp. Not wet but we're cold, we're wearing all our warm clothes in our bags at night and still shivering! First distillery on the three distilleries path:
Ardbeg Distillery
The Three Distilleries Bike Path
Lagavulin Distillery
Lagavulin Distillery was next, I forgot to take a pic of Laphroaig before rolling back through Port Ellen and the lovely clean public conveniences. These things are noteworthy when wild camping. 

 After a 20km hack NNW into a force 6 northerly on the straight road past the airport, we came to Bowmore. Distillery number 4 of the day already. We had a bad memory of Bowmore Tea shops on the last trip so we pushed on. second breakfast was being very much anticipated.
Bowmore Distillery
Fortunately we came across Cafaidh Blasta on the road to Bridgend. A cheerful community café with great cake coffee and lunch options, besides a cream tea. A mini bus of older residents came in, we had a lovely chat with them. The staff taught us a little Gaelic, I'm very ashamed to say that half an hour later my pea brain had emptied it all out again.
Cream tea for morning coffee at excellent Cafaidh Blasta
Luck would have it the Bridgend Quilting Group had an exhibition on. Mighty fine talent in the detail of the quilts. I'd love this one on my wall.
My favourite quilt in the exhibition
Incredible stitching and detail

Feeling suitably refreshed and socially rejuvenated we pushed through the headwind to Bridgend around the bay and onto the north coast on an out and back at Sanaigmore.
Heading down for lunch on the beach.
Well lunch overlooking the beach.
Our lunches are not pretty but very tasty. A spork is your friend. Far too much plastic though. We carried a packable small cube cool bag that fitted the top of a pannier, kept all the food together, easy to access and also prevented spillage from butter etc. Not that we had any problems with "spreadable" butter, it was always hard for the whole tour.
Gourmet lunch

 The sheep kept us company.
Finally a bit of a tailwind!
Kilchoman Distillery in the middle of nowhere, number 5 of the day
Past Kilchoman Distillery (#5 today), but we didn't have time to go to Kilchoman beach as well as we were headed for Port Charlotte to put the tent up and then do a loop to Portnahaven before dinner.
Bruichladdich Distillery - also makes Botanist Gin in Port Charlotte
The most creative distillery logo at Bruichladdich coming into Port Charlotte. That's 6 out of 8 Islay distilleries today. Hate whisky, love Botanist gin that is also distilled here. We found the pre booked campsite out of the other side of town at Port Mor. Quite an exposed site for such a windy day. We checked in, treated ourselves to tea and cake in the cafe and set off ready for a smashfest as we have no luggage on the back now. We had tied the tent to the fence with our guy ropes.
It was glorious out to Portnahaven. It felt quite Cornish with the cottages all around the harbour.
Portnahaven panorama
Portnahaven
We saw some seals basking in the harbour
We turned north up the coast directly into the almost gale force northerly. It was a battle for 10km with steep hills
Eventually we turned SE and swooped back down to Port Charlotte and baack to the campsite around 18.30. Very satisfied with our day. If only this cold wind would abate! Islay is giving us bucket loads of panoramas. We enjoyed our curry at the campsite cafe, we had earned it.
Insta:
Day 4 #PuffingPuffinsTour2019 #islay #ClaggainBay to #PortCharlotte, put the tent up then a loop out to #Portnahaven without panniers. After a grey start the sun came out but a very strong northerly (plenty white horses so a Force 6 in my book) kept us working hard. Great stop off at the Gaelic Centre near Bridgend, bonus #quilting exhibition. Lunch overlooking the beach on north coast. 105km and 950m climbing. Don’t come here! #camping #cycling #cycletouring #innerhebrides

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