Saturday, March 28, 2020

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 9 Mull: Craignure to Barra: Scurrival via Oban Sunday 16th June 2019

Day 9

Today: 19 km 170m Ferries: 2

Tour to date: 544km 6004m Ferries: 9 Islands: 5
North Barra

Today was mainly travel, of the motorised version. We packed up a soggy otter's tent and wet clothes in Craignure and caught the 9.30 ferry back to Oban. 

Although I will now do anything to avoid Spoons, on principle, I made an exception. Our first call was proper breakfast in Spoons, on our last trip we were fuelled every day by a hearty breakfast as we were staying in B&Bs mainly. Camping breakfasts are somewhat disappointing in comparison!
Steve's best breakfast of the holiday
We then headed off to Lidl for an exciting food shop, it's Sunday so it has to be a big metropolis for a food shop to be open. Nothing will be open on Barra later as we dock at 6pm. We then head over to a generic chain outdoor shop and snag a 66% reduced long sleeve merino base layer each, we’ve been so hypothermic at night. Subsidiary purchases were a gas canister and two new sporks as we broke one, but sporks are BOGOF. Every gram has to earn a place in touring luggage.
As it says on the sign in Oban
We queue an hour before our 13.30 ferry for Castlebay, after buying a dressed crab at my favourite Oban haunt, The Seafood Shack on the pier, for my lunch. Award winning CalMac stodge avoidance strategy.
Queuing for Oban-Casltlebay Cal Mac ferry
Outer Hebrides: Vatersay and Barra
It’s always stunning weather on a two ferry "re-positioning" day. We had the best day weather wise on this ferry on Tour d'Ecosse in 2016 too. We even got the wet lycra surreptitiously dry on the overheated boat.
Castlebay Barra
There is nowhere quite like Barra, except perhaps Norway.
Castlebay Barra


Kisimul Castle, Castlebay Harbour Barra Outer Hebrides Scotland
Near Scurrival Campsite Barra
It was a stunning evening ride up the west coast of Barra, past the airport on the beach, and on to the delightful Scurrival Campsite on the north coast of the island. Lovely welcoming owner "pitch where you want, pay when you want, hope you don't want nightlife, beach is over there" Magical. A cottage housed the shower rooms and full cooking kitchen and dining table for bad/midgy weather. We didn't need to use that tonight!

Camping Scurrival Barra Outer Hebrides Scotland

Thursday, March 05, 2020

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 8 Mull: Calgary Bay to Craignure Saturday 15th June 2019

Day 8

Today: 54 km 688m Ferries: 0
Tour to date: 525km 5834m Ferries: 7 Islands: 4
Isle of Mull Cheese, Tobermory



So wet today, wet tent, wet all day, says my Strava entry for the day. It had poured overnight after our lovely evening in Calgary Bay, we packed up a soaking wet tent in pouring rain, which never let up all day. Just as well today is an easy day in miles, although we were supposed to do some gravelly adventure exploring and I had scoped out a breakfast destination north of Dervaig. It was a lumpy day though, especially around Dervaig. "Brutal" hills and then the gravel, "no way" said Steve so we stuck to tarmac to Tobermory, and more hills into the torrential rain. 

Fortunately I had also scoped out the  Isle of Mull Cheese café for a possible coffee/lunch stop. A beautiful setting in a glass barn with expansive views and a woodburner. Soup and a cheese board were very welcome 
Cheesy lunch at Isle of Mull Cheese
We dithered over lunch, it was so nice drying out a bit. We dallied so long we ended up having afternoon tea as well. We even convince ourselves it was drying up a bit outside. Over 90 minutes of delicious time wasting culinary gluttony enjoying the views and almost not shivering. I bought some cheese in the shop, but sadly it was not a cheese making day so we couldn't delay any further viewing the cheesy process. I'd have loved that.
Afternoon Tea at Isle of Mull Cheese!
We pulled our socks up, put our wet gloves back on along with wet caps and helmets, wet jackets and ventured back out. We didn't have the enthusiasm to drop down into Tobermory town itself, we had visited on a gorgeous morning on our 2016 Tour d'Ecosse The stumbling block was the hill down, or more to the point the hack back up again. We had been stopped for a long time and couldn't justify any more café stops so we pushed on towards Salen. A road we had ridden before. We remembered it being a quick blast but had forgotten the rolling nature of the road. Also as a 2 lane road it's relatively busy as it's the main connecting artery between the island's 3 main ferry terminals.
Salen
My lovely derelict clinker built fishing boats are still at Salen. I stopped to appreciate the rugged beauty of them and took rather too many pictures that I haven't cut down. I just love the weathering and decay. Still plenty of rain but in the drier spells the midges were out in droves. We did not hang about, out sprinting the midges was essential. A speed above 15km/h is necessary, but we are carrying camping kit remember.
Salen

Clinker fishing boats detail Salen, Isle of Mull
Utter beauty

Bye bye Salen boats. A 20km plod back down to Craignure.
The run down to Craignure
Back on The Sheiling Campsite, tent up, hot shower and pub dinner and I lost killer scrabble, we both had scores over 300! Ferry day tomorrow. thank you mull we had a blast, especially on the west coast round Calgary Bay. We still haven't got you out of our system, nor visited Ulva.


Marvellous Mull

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