Showing posts with label Calgary Bay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Calgary Bay. Show all posts

Thursday, March 05, 2020

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 8 Mull: Calgary Bay to Craignure Saturday 15th June 2019

Day 8

Today: 54 km 688m Ferries: 0
Tour to date: 525km 5834m Ferries: 7 Islands: 4
Isle of Mull Cheese, Tobermory



So wet today, wet tent, wet all day, says my Strava entry for the day. It had poured overnight after our lovely evening in Calgary Bay, we packed up a soaking wet tent in pouring rain, which never let up all day. Just as well today is an easy day in miles, although we were supposed to do some gravelly adventure exploring and I had scoped out a breakfast destination north of Dervaig. It was a lumpy day though, especially around Dervaig. "Brutal" hills and then the gravel, "no way" said Steve so we stuck to tarmac to Tobermory, and more hills into the torrential rain. 

Fortunately I had also scoped out the  Isle of Mull Cheese café for a possible coffee/lunch stop. A beautiful setting in a glass barn with expansive views and a woodburner. Soup and a cheese board were very welcome 
Cheesy lunch at Isle of Mull Cheese
We dithered over lunch, it was so nice drying out a bit. We dallied so long we ended up having afternoon tea as well. We even convince ourselves it was drying up a bit outside. Over 90 minutes of delicious time wasting culinary gluttony enjoying the views and almost not shivering. I bought some cheese in the shop, but sadly it was not a cheese making day so we couldn't delay any further viewing the cheesy process. I'd have loved that.
Afternoon Tea at Isle of Mull Cheese!
We pulled our socks up, put our wet gloves back on along with wet caps and helmets, wet jackets and ventured back out. We didn't have the enthusiasm to drop down into Tobermory town itself, we had visited on a gorgeous morning on our 2016 Tour d'Ecosse The stumbling block was the hill down, or more to the point the hack back up again. We had been stopped for a long time and couldn't justify any more café stops so we pushed on towards Salen. A road we had ridden before. We remembered it being a quick blast but had forgotten the rolling nature of the road. Also as a 2 lane road it's relatively busy as it's the main connecting artery between the island's 3 main ferry terminals.
Salen
My lovely derelict clinker built fishing boats are still at Salen. I stopped to appreciate the rugged beauty of them and took rather too many pictures that I haven't cut down. I just love the weathering and decay. Still plenty of rain but in the drier spells the midges were out in droves. We did not hang about, out sprinting the midges was essential. A speed above 15km/h is necessary, but we are carrying camping kit remember.
Salen

Clinker fishing boats detail Salen, Isle of Mull
Utter beauty

Bye bye Salen boats. A 20km plod back down to Craignure.
The run down to Craignure
Back on The Sheiling Campsite, tent up, hot shower and pub dinner and I lost killer scrabble, we both had scores over 300! Ferry day tomorrow. thank you mull we had a blast, especially on the west coast round Calgary Bay. We still haven't got you out of our system, nor visited Ulva.


Marvellous Mull

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Wednesday, January 01, 2020

Puffing Puffins Tour Day 7 Mull: Fionnphort to Calgary Bay Friday 14th June 2019

Day 7

Today 94 km 1116m Ferries: 0
Tour to date: 471km 5146m Ferries: 7 Islands: 4
Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull

We wake to a strong wind at Fidden Farm near Fionnphort, still northerly. We strike camp and fight the flapping tent into it's stuffsack, tents are made of spinnaker material these days and do a good impression of wanting to sail off when I just want to get it into as small a space as possible! Bikes loaded we set off at 10am to retrace our steps for 30km. We know there is no café stop at Pennyghael Post Office today, as the post mistress told us yesterday she was off to a textiles exhibition on the mainland, her only weekend off all summer. So we stopped early on at the shop in Bunessan for the day's supplies, fairly certain that's the only shop today. On we plod into the wind. Then the rain starts. We find several cyclists despondently reading the sign on the closed PO door in Pennyghael and confirm what we know. They are heading to Fionnphort. We take the left and notice a sign for Whitetail Gin and a café and a hotel. We are cold and wet and quite despondent but decide to tackle the extra steep hill and hope the sign is telling the truth. It was, past the hotel we find newly established Whitetail Gin and café and head inside, it's 12.30. Hot drinks and food made all the difference. Chatted with the enterprising young owners and fellow customers who apologised for being "twitchers." I'm not sure why they apologised, I'm jealous because I know nothing about wildlife and only see specks, good for them enjoying the stunning surroundings and having a fascinating interest and enjoying their holiday too.
Whitetail Gin Cafe
Fortified and pleased to see the rain has abated slightly, we head off out at nearly 2pm. We have another 50+km and some immediate sharp climbing round Ben More to conquer. We wend our way around the coast, sweat our way up a sharp pull and see Ulva looming below. Served by a daily ferry, except on Saturdays (today) we couldn't spare the time for 2 days on Ulva and Gometra and really you need mountain bikes if not walking, there are no paved roads on off-grid Ulva, one community café and Ulva Primary School is at the ferry jetty, on Mull! We have passed the escape route to Salen so are committed to getting to Calgary Bay tonight now.
Ulva looming ahead
Ben More off to the right




Basking seal
As we continue skirting the coast we are distracted by all the birds, the sky is clearing and we even "sunbathe" for a while. Steve spots an eagle and I did manage to glimpse it. There is now enough blue sky for a pair of sailor's trousers. It is drop dead gorgeous here.

Looking back to Ulva

We plod up the last big pull of the day and Calgary Bay comes into view.  What a reward for our efforts.
Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull
We swoop down and immediately spot the community camping space by the southern end of the beach with a public toilet block/bins/recycling and water tap funded by donations. There were about half a dozen tents and we easily found a flat spot with a picnic bench and a view. What a view.

Badly Pitched tent
Camping Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull
Finally I get my wild swim, it's perishing cold, campers walking their dogs are wrapped up in fleeces but after shivering into the water eventually, it was a long walk out to get deep enough, two others joined me, in wetsuits. We had a sociable chat about outdoorsy things. Once fully submerged the cold is actually warm, hard to explain but your core gets warm and I wasn't freezing, although I can never feel my hands and feet. quite a long time later I emerged (I did swim too) to Steve holding both micro towels and my fleece to wrap myself in. The exhilaration of cold water wild swimming is so worth the first few minutes of discomfort. Once dry and wrapped up my skin tingled for hours, feeling alive and lucky to be here.
Wild Swim Calgary Bay, Isle of Mull
Calgary Bay
After a nice brew we actually ate a dehydrated chilli we had been carrying all round the Cairngorms last summer. It was food, everything tastes good after a day out in fresh air and in such glorious surroundings. Your senses are so heightened. A lovely sunset concluded a memorable day.


From Insta: #Day7 Yesterday was a day of two halves. Very hypothermic morning to #WhitetailGin from #Fionnphort Finding the café saved abandoning back to ferry. The afternoon up to #CalgaryBay was utterly gorgeous #cycling Rain abated, sun came out, plenty of #hills ending in the most perfect #wildcamp and #wildswim ever. Half way through #PuffingPuffinsTour2019 already#InnerHebrides #cycletouring #Mull



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